Winter road trip
See the
photo gallery
Driving the Alcan Highway from Alaska to
Colorado at the winter solstice
By Rich Stromberg, Dec. 25, 2005
What do you
call a guy who sets off on a 3,600-mile road trip in the dead of
winter to drive the Rocky Mountain chain from Alaska to southern
Colorado? Bear in mind that this is the same guy who goes
kayaking with his Australian shepherd - in the ocean.
Crazy doesn't quite sum it up, because there was a fair
amount of planning up front. Adventurous is probably closer to
the mark, because these are the undertakings that lead to
stories - for your buddies and for your future grandchildren.
"That's nothing. I once drove the Alcan in December with a dog
and two cats."
Hey, it's got to be better than sitting in an office
attending a budget meeting or deciding annual employee raises.
Who's the crazy one now?
Day 11 - Christmas:
Lethbridge is the Tucson of Canada. As one of the southern-most
towns, it sports swimming pools1
and year-round RV parks. The night I spent there, the ground was
snow-free and the temperatures ranged from 33 to 54 degrees
Fahrenheit.2
It may seem strange to those who live in the lower 48 that
southern Alberta is a mild climate, but when you've come from
more than 61 degrees north latitude, the 49th
parallel is quite mild - and very sunny. But don't ask me. Ask
the geese who were hanging out on Oldman River3
that runs along the west side of town. Canada geese don't hang
around out of national pride. They're here because the climate
is mild - at least today.
I
always do a walk-around of the truck and trailer before pulling
out. About a third of the time, I see some small thing that
needs to be secured or that I forgot to lock up. Today, I
noticed that the previous night's winds had wreaked havoc with
the trailer's awning.4 It was
so bad that I had to manually un-roll the awning about
two-thirds of the way before the little strap fell out that you
normally use to hook into and pull the awning out.
I was one of literally a handful of vehicles heading south to
the U.S. border on Christmas morning. The drive was great.
Little wind, sun and divided highway most of the way. I got gas
at a station in Milk River that was open.
The border crossing itself went smoothly. It's interesting
that when you cross into the U.S., they want to know if you have
poultry5, fresh fruits and
vegetables or game meat. When you cross into Canada, they want
to know if you have alcohol or tobacco. Interesting priorities.
This helps explain why Canada has the fifth lowest rate of heart
disease, compared with the U.S. at 17th.

Once across the border, two things happened. The mountains got
closer and the wind picked up - a combination of a head wind and
a cross wind. Along with the hills, the gas mileage dropped to
about 6 miles per gallon. Heading into Great Falls, the winds
got very strong, but be time I got into the Big Belt Mountains
north of Helena6, the strong
winds remained aloft and the driving was much easier. Some
lenticular7 clouds were forming
above some of the peaks in the area, which means that a
significant change in the weather will occur in 18 to 36 hours.
The temperatures were very mild for Montana in the winter -
about 54 degrees in Helena. A fellow driving a pickup with the
license plate "SCRUBY" said that there was a foot of snow on the
ground in Bozeman, though. Scruby had a beard and long hair in a
pony tail. He is what I would describe as a Tom Matovich8
type - a very friendly hippy vibe.
Coming into Helena, the drive along the Missouri River was
scenic, although several stretches are now lined with houses. It
was so warm, I saw someone fly-fishing and two kayakers floating
down the river.
The
mountains in this region aren't very big, but they offer up a
pastoral mix of grassy meadows and stands of timber. The herds
of cattle look as picturesque as an ad in Cattleman's
Quarterly and the fields of baled hay look like they were paid
for by the Montana Tourism Bureau.
Beef is what's for dinner around these parts. Some
restaurants even offer local beef, darn-near fresh off the hoof.
One of those places in the Oasis in Manhattan, a small town just
west of Bozeman. For over ten years, I've had "Christmas in
Manhattan" on my to-do list. This year I finally made that dream
come true as I got off the interstate highway to drive through
Manhattan on the two-lane highway. I'll be back in a day or so
for a fresh steak when the restaurant is open.9
So it is that I find myself in Bozeman on Christmas Day.
There's snow on the ground that is already being melted by the
Rocky Mountain sunshine. The days are much longer. And I have a
few friends in town that I want to catch up with. Since the trip
is about enjoying the journey, I think I'll stay a few days to
rest up before the final push into Colorado.
As Merle Haggard says, "Turn me loose. Set me free. Somewhere
in the middle of Montana."10
Days 12 and 13.
______________________________________________________________________________
1 Years ago, I was traveling through
southern Ontario and noticed that at least two out of every five
houses had a swimming pool in the backyard. Warmth is relative -
just ask your hypothalamus.
2
After I leave Canada, assume all temperatures are in Fahrenheit.
I'm getting tired of spelling that out. On a side note, if that
show, "The O.C.", was produced in Canada, it would be called
"The 0C."
3 Yes, that really is its name. No, I didn't sing the
song.
4 I am not a fan of awnings on trailers. They are nice in
theory, but they are prone to problems such as this as well as
an occasional jam in the mechanism. In the Rockies, the wind can
blow so hard that more times than not, I find myself having to
close the awning back up before the wind rips it off at the
moorings. Never walk away from a trailer with the awning open.
5 The whole bird flu thing, which is strange because
it has killed, what, 20 people? The regular flu kills tens of
thousands of people in the U.S. each year.
6 Hand basket.
7 Lenticular means lens-shaped. The clouds in the
right side of the photo are starting to turn lens-shaped. Always
heed the warning of these clouds as the jet stream is passing
through. If it was been warm, then the jet stream is moving
south and bring cold weather and possible snow behind it. If it
has been cold, the jet stream is moving back up north and the
weather should warm up soon.
8 Tom was a long-time resident of the Bozeman area.
Many people recognized him by his green hat with the snakeskin
band. Tom was raised in Columbus, Mont. in a family that had
originally settled in the Missouri Breaks. If you've ever seen
the Duckboy-brand western postcards, Tom is in the "Montana
Double Date" card - he's the one on the left. Check it out at
www.duckboy.com. Tom was a very
independent person as are many who are native to Montana. Other
states talk a lot about being independent, but Montana walks the
walk more than any other state. These people value their civil
liberties and are wary of big government where it attempts to
limit personal freedoms. While driving into Great Falls, I saw
an American flag flying upside-down. There are religious and
conservative people in Montana, they tend to take the attitude
of "I stay out of your business, so you stay out of mine."
9 This coming from a guy who eats either wild salmon
or game meat. For me to eat beef says that this is the
place to get beef.
10 I actually heard this song years ago as I was
driving through a September snow storm near Big Sky, Mont.
What's strange is that it was being broadcast by an AM-stereo
station out of Las Vegas, Nev. The atmospheric conditions of
nighttime and the snow storm allowed me to pick up the signal
from 800 miles away.
Additional Advertising Space Available
|